Home | Blog | Perfect Eyeliner

Perfect Eyeliner

ISABEL COLLADO

Perfect eyeliner is not just makeup – it’s the art of enhancing the gaze and bringing out its character. Eyeliner micropigmentation turns everyday makeup into a long-lasting effect that always looks fresh and stylish.

In this article, our ambassador – Isabel Collado (IG: @isabelcollado_pmu) – shares her knowledge and practical tips on how to create eyeliner that truly captivates. From choosing the right shape and design, through technique, to selecting the right tools and pigments. If you want to learn how to avoid common mistakes and achieve results that are both long-lasting and beautiful – keep reading.

Perfect Eyeliner

Eyeliner micropigmentation is a technique that enhances and defines the eyes, adjusting the effect to individual preferences in terms of color, design, and shape.

It’s an ideal solution for clients who want to emphasize their eyes in a long-lasting way, without the need for daily makeup application.

Shape and Construction

The eyeliner’s design should follow the natural shape of the client’s eye, highlighting its beauty and balance.

  • Thin line – for a softer, more natural look
  • Thicker line – for a more intense and dramatic effect

The choice depends on personal style and desired outcome.

Additionally, eyeliner micropigmentation is a great solution for clients who struggle with symmetrical eyeliner application or who lack time for detailed daily eye makeup. Pigmentation offers a lasting way to highlight the eyes with precision and style.

Three key elements of perfect eyeliner:

  1. Design
  2. Color
  3. Depth of work

Incorrect Design

Risk Zones

We all know that the eye area is one of the most delicate regions to work on in facial micropigmentation because of the high risk of pigment migration. A proper design is essential to achieve a satisfactory outcome.

  1. Areas marked in red should never be pigmented (the tear duct and the outer corner of the eye) — doing so risks pigment migration, as shown in the photos below.
  2. Pressure must be light to avoid overly deep implantation.
  3. The machine and needle should be kept at a 90° angle to the skin to prevent deep placement of pigment.

 

Fot. 1 “Eyeliner” resulting from poor mapping. Poor work on skin folds produces unsightly results. (Author's private archive)

Fot. 2 “Eyeliner” resulting from poor mapping with pigment spillage. (Author's private archive)

Incorrect Design Transfer = Incorrect Makeup

For eyeliner to look beautiful and heal correctly, it is essential to take into account the shape of the eye and eyelid — especially the immobile eyelid. Every eye is different. We will encounter various eyelid types, and must adapt the eyeliner design accordingly.

 

Types of eyelids and your work

Hooded Eyelid

This eye shape leaves very few options. In such cases, depending on the degree of droop, the best choice is usually only lash line shading.

Deep-Set Eyelid

Here, we must consider the fold of the immobile eyelid over the mobile one. Depending on the space available, the eyeliner may be more or less projected. The wing should never exceed the natural crease, or the line will appear cut.

Open Eyelid

The most favorable eye shape, offering the greatest freedom of design.

Work Method

After carefully drawing the design, the choice of needle becomes key. I personally use Optima needles:
  1. 1RL LT 0.25 – perfect for transferring the design in classic contouring and shading. This same needle can create delicate eyelid shading and refined pixels.
  2. 3RL LT 0.25/0.30 – excellent for filling the lash line with more depth of color in less time, and also for completing a classic eyeliner.
Always remember: we are working on delicate skin, so the hand must be soft and light — the needle should gently “caress” the skin to implant pigment delicately. Use pendulum-like movements: short strokes for more pigment density, longer strokes for softly diffused pixels. In the art of eyeliner micropigmentation, the machine also plays a crucial role. We are looking for soft strokes of 2.5–3 mm. I recommend the Sona Sky machine, which is also wireless, offering more freedom of movement while working.

Pigment Choice

A frequent concern is pigment color stability. Over time, undesired shades often appear — typically because only one pigment (black) was used.

To create a classic eyeliner and prevent the color from turning bluish or overly gray, two pigment shades should be used:

  1. Complete the entire design in black.
  2. Before finishing, make a pass over the eyeliner with an orange corrective pigment or the warmest shade of brown available.

 

Shaded Eyeliner

There are two approaches:

  1. Work with black shading only, then finish with a warm brown on top.
  2. Shade the eyelid with different shades of brown, creating a gradient from darkest at the lash line to lightest toward the top.

If you want a deeper, more defined eye, the lash line can be reinforced with black pigment.

This eyeliner is undoubtedly my favorite — more natural, and it ages far more gracefully.

Fot. 1 Correctly performed eyeliner pigmentation. (Author's private archive)

Fot. 2 Correctly performed eyeliner pigmentation. (Author's private archive)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Isabel Collado

PMU artist from Valencia, with over 20 years in the beauty industry. For the past 8 years she has fully dedicated herself to permanent makeup, which has become her greatest passion.

A master trainer in microblading and micropigmentation techniques, international championship judge, and speaker sharing her expertise in areas such as areola reconstruction. She inspires with her work across Spain and other European cities.

Proud member of the Kwadron Pro Team, always loyal to the precision and quality of Kwadron needles, which have elevated her results since the very beginning of her career.